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I usually run some seafoam in the systems once they are clean to draw out light moisture afterwards. Run machine to warm everything thing up and repeat. Replace all filters and fill sumps with fresh oil. etc) and just changing the sump oils will quickly contaminate new oil. Just remember, everything still has water in them (torque converter, pistons, lines. If I am dealing with contamination I usually disconnect as many components as possible and used compressed air to blow out residual oil. Let everything drain for a couple of days (be surprised at how much will come out). Getting moisture contamination out can be a project. If the systems are contaminated with water I would warm the tractor up under no load and then drain them. Transmission and steering clutches share a common sump, but are drained and filled separately. Steering clutches have drain plugs as well (Allen heads).īe prepared for about 20 gallons between the systems. Transmission drain plug is under machine (1 1/8" or 1 1/4" socket to remove). Reservoirs are usually pressurized to keep out dust, so remove fill cap first to let out pressure. Remove the panel and there will be a pipe plug at the bottom of the hydraulic reservoir. Anyway, a LONG (automatic transmission type) funnel sure helps for filling it back up.Standing at the back of the machine the hydraulic drain plug is located behind the trim panel on the right hand side. I'm guessing you already know where this is since you know how bad the oil looks. It's just a standard spin on filter (same part number as the engine oil filter).Ĥ) The dipstick and filler tube are the same hole (under the seat). Just open the grill up in front of the machine and it's right there. I recommend getting a pre-made gasket from deere for this job because not only is it hard to get to, but it's hard to dry out the area to use silicon gasket maker and the cover has a sending unit in it so it hangs there by a wire making everything pretty cluttered and annoying because you have to do this from under the machine.ģ) The actual filter sits in front of the radiator behind the grill. Try to clean up the area around and above as much as possible before taking this off because it's probably caked with crud and you don't want that going into the screen's canister. Look up the schematic on jdparts (under TRANSMISSION FILTER) to help identify the cover for this. This is located on the right side of the machine near the transmission drain plug and it's kind of hard to get at. Make sure you have plenty of drain pans because it holds around 6 gallons.Ģ) As long as you're going through all this work and oil you had better clean the screen filter. You will need a socket to reach it through the hole in the belly pan and probably a breaker bar to get it turning. If not, disregard thisġ) There's a 1 1/8" drain plug at the bottom of the transmission. I think that changing the transmission fluid on the 450C is the same as it is on my 450 straight (w/HLR). Will you please give me the basics on how change fluid and filter? Needs a head of stem or it does not want to know. It drives fine but wants be weak or not go if you decide to stop while pushing dirt. My rig has trans fluid w/ water (looks like a latte). Farrellapparel wrote:Hi, I could really use some pointers. |
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